There have been six panels on the console in all of
its incarnations. Just about every other detail has changed at one time or another.
me probably the season that I have the best memory of is the Key To Time season,
with the first Romana. So I decided to build the console the Doctor had then.
Other console builders have viewed this one with disdain, though looking at it I
decided that I had the most chance of being able to match parts for that
console, so I could get a reasonably close match. Although it changed a little
during its lifetime (notably falling apart a piece at a time), it was there for
a long time, with only minor changes and rearrangements of the panels.
The schematic here is from a slightly later console
during Peter Davison’s time before the Five Doctors.
For my console I chose the following configuration:
- The drive panel (with the two levers and the two big cowlings. One
of these was lost fairly early in the life of the console; the other was
lost or removed quite late. On my console I have them both in place.
- The coordinate panel with the black circular segment with six
white dials on it.
- The Environmental panel with the big red door lever on it.
- The Navigation panel with the large display and the joystick. I
did the earlier version of this – not the new one with the TARDIS
Information System in it.
- The sensor panel with the red trackball, silver grid and the
(sometimes) green chunky control.
- The central computer station, with the triangular control panel,
the large circular readout and assorted other controls.
All of the six panels have raised shapes on which
the instruments are mounted. These are actually quite handy for screwing the
fitments into. I made them using silver-painted bathroom board, after cutting to shape
with a jigsaw. I actually made paper formers for these so I could experiment
with the dimensions before committing with a saw.
The back panels were spray-painted a darker grey
All six panels have a raised rectangle at the top,
which I constructed with wood, molding and topped with bathroom board painted silver.
The tops are open and each is back-mounted with a loudspeaker to allow for sound
The actual instruments are many and varied, and
finding matches for the controls used on screen has proved to be an interesting
drive panel is the one that controls the TARDIS’s flight. It has two major
displays with hoods to shade them from the lights, two large levers between them
to control the dematerialization. We see the Doctor and Romana using these
levers in this way, and this matches the schematics drawn for the Doctor Who
Manual and DWM.
There are rows of switches either side, two black
five inch recessed circles, which at least in Jon Pertwee’s era were the
telepathic circuits (as seen at the end of “Frontier in Space”). I take it
that they still have this purpose.
The two lever boxes I scratch-built from MDF sheets
bonded together with glue. These were first cut to shape with a jigsaw and
bonded with an 8th inch MDF sheet between them. They were then sanded
smooth with a belt sander and orbital sander. They were then spray-painted.
The levers themselves are strips of aluminium
flashing pushed into slots cut into a wooden drawer knob using a hacksaw. More
flashing formed “L” pieces screwed to the back of the panel and bolts pushed
through the three pieces. I mounted a pair of magnetic reed contact switches
behind each so that the levers could actually be made to do something.
The telepathic circuits
I made the telepathic circuits from
recessed light fittings, which have a nice flat metal ring of the right size
(5”). These I separated from their inner ribbed cups and backed instead with bathroom board
disks spray-painted black. Presently they’re just decorative…
The hooded displays
display, I cut away a circle of plywood and mounted a 15" LCD monitor
behind. The displays sit in
wooden cradles I made for them and sit flush with the plywood substructure. The
hoods are curved plastic sheeting that I took from plastic “for sale” signs
. This was cut with scissors into a
sine-wave shape (formed by plotting a graph), and
spray-painted matt black
Although one hood was missing for most
of the console's life (I assume it was knocked off while the console was in
transit/storage), I’ve chosen to have both of mine remain installed. The
console just looks better like that.
So far I’ve just used automotive
toggle switches from Radio Shack. They are not a very good match, but they’re
black – and I’ll change them out when I find something better.
The Coordinate Entry Panel
This panel has the six-dimensional
input coordinate knobs, two large adjusters, a row of toggle switches, an
emergency stop button and a few other items.
six coordinate knobs are mounted on a black disk with about 1/3rd cut
out in a pie segment (though not from the centre). The knobs themselves are
wooden wagon-wheels from an arts ‘n’ crafts store. The inner side is flat,
so I have them that way up. I painted them white by dipping them in heavy gloss
paint, and used decorative brass screw covers from light fittings as the gold
bumps in the middle.
The large black knobs on either side I
made using wheel hubs from model cars (available from Hobby Town in the US). I
mounted these on bolts pushed through soda pop bottle caps that have a plain
knob glued underneath. The centre of each is covered with a ˝ inch screw cap
(“nipple”). These are actually not held in.
I added four Radio Shack push buttons
at the bottom.
The Environment Control Panel
panel has the large door control (constructed very like the drive control knobs,
but using ˝ brass tube and a 2 ˝” wooden ball painted red with several
layers of varnish. It also has reed switches underneath so that it can be
There are several radio shack toggle
switches, a radio shack voltmeter and nine radio shack lamp enclosures on this
panel. The speaker grill on the top panel is wire mesh from a craft store backed
with black fabric.
panel has a large inset display and a joystick. The display is an 18" LCD, mounted
in a wooden cradle, much as for the Drive
panel. The joystick is a Microsoft Sidewinder, which I dismantled. I removed the
actual stick and discovered that it separates from a ˝ rod with a ball on the
bottom. I found ˝" brass tube produced a beautiful tight fit over this while
still being removable for servicing. Another 2-˝" wooden ball painted silver did
the job for this stick. The base is a biscuit tin lid upside down with black
construction paper cut with slots sitting in it. The black paper covered the
bolts that bolt the tin lid to the console.
There are three silver knobs down the
left side (from Radio shack) a larger black knob at the bottom (also Radio
shack) and a row of push buttons along the bottom (also radio shack).
The Sensor Panel
This panel changed around quite a lot
during the series. The version I built has the 6” black squares near the time
rotor. I placed the red track ball on the right. I wanted an old Microsoft
Easyball for this but couldn’t find one locally. I think they stopped making
them a while ago, so I used a 4” ball from a Bocce set (a ball game a bit like
croquet). The grille in the middle is a section of lighting diffuser.
centre-piece for this panel is the
11” round display. For this I used the back trim from a domed light fitment. I
cut the back out of this using tin snips.
The triangular panel to the left is
switches and lights from Radio Shack, as is the smaller panel along the top. The
panel to the right has a large yellow meter at the top. I cut the frame for this
from bathroom board (rather carefully), and then printed a black backdrop with white
dots on this onto paper using a laser printer. The Red panel below it is
spray-painted bathroom board. The Large grey knob is another wheel hub from the model
car shop. There is a small grid of very small lights (LEDs) cut from bathroom board
and carefully scored to produce the grid.
The black knob far right is an oil
filler cap from an automotive store. I had to get the guy behind the counter to
open five or six boxes I picked from his catalogue before I found a good match.
When I smile and tell people I’m doing an “art project” they are often